Chikankari, the centuries-old embroidery technique from Lucknow, is renowned for its delicate handwork and intricate designs. Among the many stitches used in this traditional craft, the Bakhiya stitch stands out as one of the most essential and widely used stitches. Also known as the shadow work stitch, Bakhiya adds depth and elegance to the fabric, giving it a distinctive, translucent effect. In this blog, we’ll dive deep into the Bakhiya stitch—its technique, variations, and how it continues to enhance Chikankari designs in both traditional and modern fashion.
At Nazrana Chikan, the Bakhiya stitch represents the heart of our craft, embodying both the heritage and artistry of traditional Chikankari. Our skilled artisans meticulously handcraft each piece using this delicate shadow work stitch, ensuring that every design reflects the authenticity and elegance that Chikankari is known for. Whether it’s a classic kurti or an intricately embroidered saree, the Bakhiya stitch enhances the beauty of our garments, creating timeless pieces that blend tradition with modern fashion. At Nazrana Chikan, we are committed to preserving the legacy of this stitch while adapting it to suit contemporary tastes.
What is Bakhiya Stitch?
Bakhiya, or shadow stitch, is a fundamental technique in Chikankari embroidery. It is executed on the reverse side of the fabric, where the embroidery threads are worked in such a way that they create a shadow effect on the front side. This subtle yet beautiful technique involves small, neat stitches that run parallel or crisscross to fill in motifs, adding texture and depth to the design.
Traditionally used on light fabrics like muslin, cotton, georgette, and chiffon, Bakhiya creates an ethereal look, perfect for the soft, flowing aesthetic of Chikankari. The stitch is predominantly used to create floral and geometric patterns, adding a touch of elegance to sarees, kurtis, dupattas, and even contemporary outfits.
Also Read: Chain Stich
The Technique Behind Bakhiya Stitch
The Bakhiya stitch is typically worked from the reverse side of the fabric, where the stitching is done in a running or herringbone pattern. The needle moves in and out of the fabric, creating small stitches that overlap slightly to form the shadow effect. Here’s a basic guide on how the Bakhiya stitch is performed:- Prepare the fabric: Choose a light, semi-transparent fabric like muslin or georgette, which best showcases the shadow work effect.
- Draw the design: Use a washable fabric pencil to sketch your design on the front side of the fabric.
- Start stitching: Work from the reverse side, making small, even stitches along the design lines. The thread’s reflection from the back side will create a soft shadow on the front side of the fabric.
- Finish and trim: Once the pattern is complete, tie off the threads on the reverse side, and trim any excess for a neat finish.
The shadow effect of Bakhiya is what makes it so unique, creating a soft, understated elegance that is both timeless and modern.
Variations of Bakhiya Stitch
While the basic shadow stitch is the foundation of Bakhiya, there are several variations that can be employed to achieve different effects:- Ulti Bakhiya (Reverse Bakhiya): In this variation, the stitch is done from the reverse side but appears as a flat surface on the front. It is commonly used for filling in larger motifs, where a smooth texture is required.
- Sidhi Bakhiya (Straight Bakhiya): This is the standard version of the Bakhiya stitch, where the shadow effect is the highlight. It is often used to outline or highlight motifs, particularly floral patterns.
- Jaal Bakhiya: This intricate version of Bakhiya creates a network or grid pattern, often used in combination with other stitches like Phanda or Keel Kangan to form detailed, elaborate designs.
Also Read: Tepchi or Straight Stitch
Importance of Bakhiya Stitch in Chikankari
The Bakhiya stitch plays a pivotal role in the overall beauty and appeal of Chikankari embroidery. It is often combined with other intricate stitches such as Phanda, Keel Kangan, and Jaali to create stunning patterns that cover the entire fabric or adorn select portions for a more subtle look. The interplay of stitches adds texture, dimension, and a graceful finish to the garment.
Traditionally, Bakhiya stitch was used in royal attire, especially on lightweight muslin fabrics worn by the Mughal rulers. Today, it remains popular in a wide range of fashion, from casual kurtis and dupattas to bridal lehengas and formal sarees. The soft, shadowy effect of Bakhiya allows the fabric to remain lightweight, making it ideal for hot, humid climates and perfect for summer wear.
Bakhiya Stitch in Modern Fashion
With the resurgence of traditional craftsmanship in contemporary fashion, the Bakhiya stitch has made its way into modern wardrobes. Fashion designers are incorporating this delicate stitch into their collections, blending the heritage of Chikankari with modern silhouettes. Bakhiya-embroidered kurtis, sarees, and dupattas are popular choices for women who appreciate both the elegance of tradition and the freshness of modern fashion.
The versatility of the Bakhiya stitch allows it to be used on a wide variety of fabrics, including modern blends like silk-cotton, organza, and rayon, making it accessible to a broader audience. The subtle elegance of Bakhiya pairs well with both casual and formal attire, ensuring its place in the ever-evolving fashion landscape.
Caring for Bakhiya-Embroidered Garments
Since Bakhiya embroidery is typically done on delicate fabrics, proper care is essential to preserve the beauty and longevity of the garment. Handwashing in cold water with mild detergent is recommended for Chikankari garments, including those with Bakhiya stitching. Avoid wringing the fabric or using a machine wash, as this can damage the embroidery and the fabric itself. Air-drying the garment in the shade helps maintain its color and texture.By following these care tips, you can enjoy the elegance of Bakhiya-embroidered garments for years to come.
In Conclusion, The Bakhiya stitch is not just a technique, but an art form that continues to enrich the world of Chikankari. Its ability to create a delicate shadow effect while maintaining a timeless appeal has made it a cornerstone of this traditional embroidery style. From its origins in the Mughal courts to its prominent place in modern fashion, Bakhiya stitch remains a symbol of elegance, craftsmanship, and enduring beauty.
Whether you're a fan of traditional or contemporary fashion, the Bakhiya stitch offers a versatile and graceful way to incorporate heritage into your wardrobe. Its subtle charm, combined with the intricate detailing of Chikankari, ensures that Bakhiya will continue to be cherished for generations to come.