Chikankari is more than just embroidery—it’s poetry stitched on fabric. Originating from Lucknow, this centuries-old art form reflects elegance, grace, and timeless beauty. But what makes it truly unique is the way each stitch carries a story. With 32 distinct Chikankari stitches, artisans weave not only threads but also culture, history, and emotions into every creation.
A Glimpse into the History of Chikankari
Chikankari traces its roots back to the Mughal era, when Empress Noor Jahan, known for her refined taste in arts, popularized this delicate hand embroidery of India. What started as white thread embroidery on fine muslin soon expanded to different fabrics and colors, carrying forward the royal charm of Lucknow.
Today, it is not just clothing but also home décor, accessories, and contemporary fashion that embrace this art. The magic, however, lies in the stitches—the heart and soul of Chikankari.
Why Stitches Matter in Chikankari
Unlike other embroidery styles, Chikankari is defined by its technique. The 32 types of Chikankari stitches are classified into six main categories, each serving a unique purpose. These stitches add dimension, depth, and design variety—transforming plain fabric into timeless pieces of art.
The beauty lies in their precision: no two artisans create stitches the same way, which means every piece is truly one-of-a-kind.
The Six Categories of Chikankari Stitches
Here’s how the traditional embroidery of Lucknow is structured:
1. Tepchi Stitches – The Foundation
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Simple running stitches
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Often used to outline motifs
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Provides a base for more intricate patterns
2. Bakhiya (Shadow Work) – The Soul of Chikankari
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Creates a shadow-like effect on fabric
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Popular for floral designs and delicate motifs
3. Hool Stitches – The Finesse
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Eyelet stitches used for tiny floral motifs
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Resembles a fine hole surrounded by thread work
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Gives designs a light, airy texture
4. Zanzeera and Rahet – The Borders
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Narrow chain stitches that enhance outlines
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Perfect for borders and defining motifs
5. Banarsi and Keel Kangan – The Intricacies
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Add depth and detailing to floral patterns
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Often seen in traditional Lucknowi sarees and kurtas
6. Murri and Phanda – The Royal Touch
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Represent rice grains and millet seeds
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Add texture and dimension to motifs
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Commonly used in Mughal-inspired designs
Each stitch serves a purpose, whether to outline, fill, or enhance a motif. Together, they form the rich tapestry of Lucknowi Chikankari embroidery.
The 32 Chikankari Stitches – A Quick Overview
While listing all 32 stitches in detail may feel overwhelming, here are some that stand out for their artistry:
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Tepchi – Running stitch foundation
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Bakhiya (Ulti & Seedhi) – Shadow and filling stitch
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Hool – Eyelet flower motif
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Zanzeera – Fine chain-like border
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Rahet – Line stitch for strength
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Banarsi – Intricate filling
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Keel Kangan – Ring-shaped detailing
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Murri – Rice-shaped knots
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Phanda – Millet-shaped knots
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Ghaspatti – Grass-like leaves
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Khatawaali – Reverse appliqué work
Every stitch has its own rhythm and story, reflecting the artisan’s hand, patience, and devotion to this craft.
The Storytelling Power of Stitches
So, how does each stitch tell a story?
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Cultural Stories: Many motifs are inspired by Mughal gardens, nature, and Persian designs. For example, Phanda stitches mimic tiny buds, symbolizing new beginnings.
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Personal Stories: Since Chikankari is handmade, every artisan leaves a personal imprint—the slight variation in each stitch becomes part of the story.
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Fashion Stories: From royal Mughal courts to today’s fashion runways, Chikankari stitches have adapted yet stayed true to their roots.
Wearing a piece of Chikankari is like carrying history, heritage, and art on your skin.
Modern Adaptations of Chikankari
The world has changed, but the appeal of traditional embroidery of Lucknow has only grown. Today:
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Designers blend types of Chikankari stitches with modern cuts.
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Fabrics range from muslin and cotton to georgette, silk, and chiffon.
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Chikankari finds space in western wear, bridal collections, and even fusion outfits.
Despite modernization, the stitches remain the foundation, keeping the essence of this heritage art alive.
Why Chikankari is More Than Just Embroidery
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It’s a heritage craft that supports thousands of artisans in Lucknow and beyond.
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It’s sustainable fashion—handmade, eco-friendly, and timeless.
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It’s a cultural identity—a symbol of Lucknow’s rich history.
Every time you choose Chikankari, you’re not just buying embroidery; you’re preserving a centuries-old story stitched with love.
Conclusion
The Chikankari stitches are more than technical embroidery techniques—they are threads of history, culture, and human emotion. With 32 stitches and countless variations, each motif narrates a story of Lucknow’s royal heritage and the artisan’s craftsmanship.
Whether it’s a saree, kurta, or a piece of home décor, when you see Chikankari, remember—it’s not just fabric; it’s storytelling in its purest form.
✨ If you want to explore authentic pieces made with these stitches, check out Nazrana Chikan – where every creation celebrates the elegance of Lucknowi art.